• Hold bike in a stand ideally

  • Drop out front wheel

  • Remove the bolts attaching brake calliper to the fork slider using an M5 allen key

  • Remove the stem top cap bolt with 5mm allen key

  • Support fork then loosen the stem bolts and slide stem and any spacers off the steerer

  • Slide the fork out from the headtube and set aside before passing a long zip tie through headsets and headtube to keep everything in place and order

  • Leave crown race collar on steerer tube- no need to remove this

  • Package up in a suitable box protecting the dropout and packing end of steerer so it dosen’t break through box

  • Please use a strong, good quality box with suitable clean packaging to save time at our end unpacking and repacking- we’ll re-use your original materials!


  • Ideally hold bike in a stand

  • Slide steerer up through headset working all headset parts onto steerer as it passes through headtube

  • Fit spacers under stem before sliding stem into place on steerer tube

  • Fit top-cap and bolt loosely

  • Align stem to front wheel and top tube by eye then tighten central stem bolt lightly

  • Bolt brake caliper onto slider lightly and secure brake hose to fork

  • Fit front wheel then spin wheel and apply then hold on front brake

  • Tighten brake caliper bolts to manufacturers torque figs, release brake lever and check wheel spins freely

  • Drop bike onto its wheels, apply brake and rock back and forth adjusting out any play in headset with top cap bolt then tighten stem bolts

  • Run final checks on all bolts, wheel and brake security etc

  • Fork is returned with a nominal pressure set up for a 70kg rider so sag may need checking and air pressure adjusted

  • Run through the fork rebound/compression settings and check they’re also set to your preference

  • Take for a gentle test ride checking all is good; Note fork may need a few strokes before damper is primed and operating correctly



  • Ideally secure bike in its stand.

  • Let a little preload off coil spring/drop air spring pressure to ease shock removal

  • If in a stand remove rear wheel- if not keep rear wheel in

  • If this is a remote lockout shock then you will have to disconnect the lever assy from the handlebars/cable from lever/cable from shock

  • Loosen lower shock mounting eye bolt, support the rear wheel then remove shock eye bolt completely

  • Support the rear swing-arm or zip tie in place and/or protect frame with cloths and packing should frame contact swing arm now its free (don’t simply let swing arm extend down as gear cables and brake hoses can be damaged)

  • Remove the upper shock mounting eye bolt and remove shock

  • Set mounting kit (spacers either side of shock eye) aside for safe keeping or return full set with shock for checking as required


  • Ideally secure the bike in a stand.

  • If you retained the mounting kit plug both sides into upper shock eye and mount upper shock end to main frame inserting mounting eye bolt (and nut) and tighten shock to the frame

  • Fit mounting kit into lower shock eye then lift swing-arm and align lower shock eye with swingarm, insert mounting bolt and tighten

  • Reconnect remote lever and cable/hose if fitted

  • Drop bike onto its wheels and check over all screws, fittings and security of wheel.

  • Check sag, rebound and compression (we set to an average rider weight of 70kg) then gently test ride before shredding!